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Restaurant Review

It was to the ultimate delight of carnivores a few decades ago when it once again became politically correct for them to admit that they took pleasure in consuming a tender steak, juicy chop or succulent roast. This was also a positive turn of events because it helped to restore the popularity of what had traditionally been an American institution, the steakhouse.

Over the past few years, numerous dining establishments have popped up, including a few nationwide chains that specialize in serving high quality cuts of red meat, which occasionally include buffalo, elk and ostrich. One of the very best of the lot is Greystone the Steakhouse, situated in the heart of downtown San Diego's historic Gaslamp Quarter. Greystone proudly features USDA prime-aged meats, fresh seafood and delicious pastas with the eclectic influences and culinary traditions of Europe, America and the Pacific Rim. They also boast an award-winning selection of wines that pair exquisitely with their fine cuisine.

Local history buffs will note that Greystone is located on the site of San Diego's old Bijou Theatre, which was one of the primary entertainment venues for downtown residents during the early part of the last century. Today, the ownership has taken full advantage of its dramatic architecture to enhance the feeling of opulent elegance that guests enjoy during their dining experience.

From the huge wooden antique bar in the frontal lounge, to the intimate lower alcove and the elegant upstairs dining area that features handsomely crafted wine cabinets and the ambience of a charming stone fireplace, everything here is absolutely first class. There is also a private dining room located on the second level that will accommodate over a dozen guests for special functions.

On the evening of our visit, my guest and I were seated in the upper dining room with a commanding view of the entire restaurant, which was beginning to fill up rather quickly considering that it was still early, and also in the middle of the workweek. Our server, David, was extremely accomplished at making us feel at home while making suggestions in regard to appetizers, wines and entrées that he felt we might enjoy.

While Greystone is without a doubt dedicated to serving fantastic chops and steaks, it should never be assumed that they are lacking in selections from the sea. Take, for example, their Ahi Tuna; seared with sesame seeds, black peppercorns and served over wasabi infused mashed potatoes and bok choy, topped with tobiko Caviar and a soy glaze, it is the epitome of Pacific Rim fusion. For those with a taste for something more subtle and delicate, there is always the fresh Dover sole, gently sautéed in butter, white wine and lemon juice.

We decided to begin our meal with an order of oysters on the half shell; six plump, excruciatingly fresh farm-raised bivalves from the chilly waters of British Columbia. The side sauces provided as an accompaniment were quite tasty and well conceived, but these oysters achieved such a high level plumpness and flavor that they really required little more than a squeeze of lemon to be fully appreciated.

Since my guest also ordered their richly delicious lobster and shrimp bisque, and I decided to try their Greystone salad, David expertly paired our appetizers with a dry Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc from California's Napa Valley, and a buttery smooth, Mezzo Corona Pinot Grigio from Italy, both of which proved to be perfect matches. The bisque was thick, comforting and each spoonful contained the mellow essence of the tasty Crustaceans that were used in its preparation.

My salad turned out to be a magnificent work of art that was made with a generous serving of fresh arugula and radicchio in light lemon mustard vinaigrette with big chunks of English Stilton cheese, candied walnuts and topped with a thinly sliced fresh pear that had been poached in Cabernet wine. It was a toothsome treat and, although I've eaten many, it was one of the very best salads of this type that I have ever had the pleasure of being served.

For our entrées, however, we decided to stick to the house specialty ...steak! For this, David made sure that our selections were matched with a smooth 2003 California Pinot Noir from Duckhorn Vineyards and a rare, velvety 2001 Coach Insignia Cabernet Sauvignon by Fisher vineyards, also from the Golden State. Greystone serves a wide variance of red meats, which include beef, pork, lamb, veal, elk and buffalo. My guest was entranced by the possibilities, and selected a Native American favorite, the buffalo tenderloin, which is served with Swiss chard, parsnip mashed potatoes, poached pear and a Port Wine Reduction. It was a choice for which she was later quite grateful. For those who have never tasted it, buffalo is leaner and richer in flavor than beef, and is also inclined to be a bit more tender.

When it comes to tenderness, however, it is hard to match the king of steaks, the filet mignon. This was my choice. The tenderloin served was enormous by contemporary restaurant standards, and weighed a full 3/4 pound. Served atop a roasted Portobello mushroom alongside grilled asparagus, it was topped with a truffle infused veal reduction and garnished with a heap of crispy haystack potatoes. This dish was a meat lover's dream; thick, tender, juicy, flavorful and formidable right down to the very last bite.

After our plates had been cleared, David informed us that their Corporate Executive Chef, Alberto Morreale, had a selected sampling of their most popular house desserts in store for us; Coffee Profiteroles (rich cream-filled pastry cakes topped with a coffee cream sauce), Seven-Layer Chocolate Passion Cake (layers of chocolate sponge cake, chocolate mousse, chocolate hazelnut cream and chocolate ganache) and a dense slice of banana cream cake that melted in your mouth as soon as it left the fork.

This crowning conclusion to our fabulous dining experience offered proof positive that, not matter where one may decide to go when in search of gourmet cuisine, prime steaks, fine wines and outstanding tableside service; it will be difficult to make a wiser choice than Greystone the Steakhouse.